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INTRODUCING THE AMERICAN FLAG
LED SOLDERING KIT / LEARNING PROJECT

The STEMSuperPowersUSA Mission

To empower future innovators through high-quality, hands-on STEM kits that introduce essential skills in electronics, components, and assembly—making learning practical, engaging, and transformative.

(KIT- 1)

Electronics Assembly & Learning Project –

American LED Flag

Most Likely the First-Ever LED American Flag

Designed by a U.S. Electrical Engineer

Engineered for Learning. Built to Inspire. Proudly Illuminated.

The LED American Flag Electronics Assembly & Learning Project is the very first in a series of kits. My hope is that it will not only teach you essential assembly & soldering skills but also spark a deeper interest in the world of electronics.

The Inspiration Behind the LED American Flag Project

The concept of turning the iconic United States flag into a hands-on electronics project was born from a desire to create an engaging, educational experience. The flag’s design is strategically divided into 37 individual circuits, allowing for a structured and methodical assembly process. This division enhances learning by making it easier to independently test and troubleshoot each section, significantly improving the chances of completing a fully functional build.

This isn’t another imported novelty—it’s a one-of-a-kind electronics assembly and learning project, carefully crafted by a retired American electrical engineer to inspire hands-on learning and proudly illuminate the spirit of American ingenuity.

What Makes This Flag Different

Most LED flags on the market are generic, mass-produced overseas. There is currently no other LED American flag available that was designed by an American electrical engineer and developed for builders and learners. This is your opportunity to own a piece of that story and share it with pride.

Designed by an American Engineer

A modular electronics project with 37 testable circuits for structured learning
Powered by safe 24VDC external power supply.
Mixed technology – utilizes both through-hole and surface-mount components
Comes with a full instructional suite: build guide, circuit theory, BOM, and troubleshooting and repair tips

This isn’t just a flag—it’s a teaching tool, a showcase piece, and a tribute to the values that made it possible.

Section-by-Section Construction

The LED American Flag PCB features a unique design that allows for complete assembly all at once or step-by-step in 37 distinct sections, each containing 7 to 8 components. This modular approach lets you build the flag one section at a time, testing each for proper operation before moving on to the next. This ensures that your component assembly and soldering are correct, and everything works as expected before proceeding. If a section functions properly, you can confidently move on to the next, knowing you're on the right track. If a section doesn’t work, you only need to troubleshoot a small set of components, making it easier to identify and fix any issues before continuing. This approach creates a smoother and more rewarding learning experience.

This project is specifically crafted to reduce the learning curve, offering both a practical and educational experience that brings immediate satisfaction as you see your progress.

Why You’ll Love the LED American Flag Electronics Project

Build Your Own Glowing Flag Create a dazzling display of stars and stripes using both through-hole and surface-mount components. Feel the excitement of electronics assembly as you bring the American flag to life with your own hands.

A Challenging and Rewarding Experience The project features 266 components to practice your soldering and assembly skills, making it perfect for both beginners and seasoned enthusiasts. This project is designed to enhance your electronics abilities by offering diverse components and techniques in one build.

Flag PCB Specifications

PCB Dimensions – 300 mm x 180 mm
Design: 13 stripes, 50 white stars, maintaining the flag's standard proportions
LED layout: 50 white LEDs arranged as stars within the blue canton, alternating red and white stripes, with a blue LED perimeter forming the border of the canton
Total Components: 266 (228 through-hole, 38 SMT resistors)
Build Structure: 37 modular testable sections
Power Input: 24VDC (external power supply)
Display Options: Open-face enclosure (stand, wall-mount, or hangable)
Visibility: High-brightness LEDs visible over 100 yards

What’s Included in the Project

Custom PCBs – LED American Flag circuit boards, precision-fabricated
Parts List Provided – You must source your own components: LEDs, resistors, Shockley diode, wire, 24V connector, power supply.
Basic Instructions – Includes soldering guidance, circuit operation overview, and troubleshooting guide
Enclosures Sold Separately – Custom-fit housing available

Beyond Soldering: Versatility and Longevity

While the project is an excellent electronic learning and soldering practice tool, it’s also versatile and long-lasting:

Personal and educational use: Great for school projects, personal hobbies, or as a learning aid
Perfect gift: An ideal gift for DIY enthusiasts or anyone passionate about electronics and patriotism
A lasting ornament: Once assembled, it transforms into a beautiful, glowing ornament for your home, office, or business

Educational Value

Each segment of the flag is buildable and independently testable, which creates a guided, frustration-free learning experience. It’s ideal for:

Electronic hobbyists
Schools and STEM classrooms
Electronics workshops
Maker communities
Patriot-themed displays or tributes
Veterans' centers and civic organizations

With its extra-bright LEDs, this flag is visible from over 100 yards, making it a standout piece for any space. The LEDs have an impressive 50,000-hour lifespan, ensuring your project will last for years.

With spare components, you’re always prepared if something needs to be replaced. With the soldering knowledge you gain, and the extra components, you’ll be able to maintain your LED Flag for decades to come.

What Your Support Helps Fund

Hosting and maintenance of the project website
Design software and development tools
Prototyping
Ongoing improvements and new feature updates
STEM outreach and educator collaboration
Future project development and community content

Ready to Dive into Electronics?

Whether you’re a seasoned electronics pro or a curious beginner, the LED USA Flag Electronics Assembly & Learning Project will ignite your passion for building while offering a rewarding, hands-on experience. It’s the perfect project to enhance your skills, show your patriotism, and create something lasting and beautiful.

Grab your soldering iron, source your components, and let’s get started.

LED American Flag Soldering Kit - 5 PCB Pack
$149.50

The First American LED Flag Designed by a U.S. Engineer -

Assembled by an American—You.

What’s Included in the Kit:

5 Custom PCBs – Precision-fabricated LED American Flag circuit boards

Included: Online, Downloadable, Parts List, Assembly Instructions, Schematic, Operational Theory, Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

What's Not Included in the Kit

Not Included: Electronic components and hardware

Please Note: You will need to source your own electronic components - LEDs, Resistors, Shockley Diode, Wire, 24V Connector, 24V Power Supply

Enclosures Sold Separately

Pricing Basic Kit:

PCB 5-Pack: $149.50 (shipping included to U.S.)

Enclosure 5-Pack: $149.50 (shipping included to U.S.)

Note: U.S. import duties may apply and are collected by the carrier. Estimated tariff cost is typically under $10 per shipment, depending on current rates and carrier processing fees.

Coming 2026!

Bulk Pricing for High Schools & Educational Distributors
OEM/Custom Versions, White-Label Options/Custom Designs, Logo's, PCB Silkscreen & Packing Available

The American LED Flag Soldering Kit-

Target: Get this kit into every US high school in the nation.

15 million kits – one for every high school student in the country.

America250 Commemorative LED Flag Kit – One in Every High School Classroom for the 250th Anniversary of the Declaration of Independence

The LED American flag soldering kit is a hands-on STEM/CTE project that teaches electronics basics (like circuits, polarity, and soldering safety) while tying into patriotism—making it a strong fit for grants aimed at improving high school STEM access, workforce skills, and equitable education. Schools can use grant funds to buy kits in bulk for classrooms, as they're considered allowable expenses for equipment, supplies, or curriculum materials that enhance technical skills.

Custom Logo/Text Available

STEM / CTE Grant Eligible Item - American Flag LED Soldering Classroom Kit-
hands-on electronics project NGSS-aligned (Next Generation Science Standards).

Title I: Federal funding that high-poverty schools use to buy STEM kits so every student – especially low-income kids – gets hands-on experience.
Perkins (CTE): Federal money given to shop, electronics, and engineering classes to purchase real tools and project kits that teach job-ready skills.
NGSS-aligned = Next Generation Science Standards These are the current K-12 science standards used by 44 states + D.C. The American LED flag soldering kit hits several NGSS performance expectations directly (e.g., HS-PS4-5, HS-ETS1-2, wave energy, engineering design, circuits, etc.).

Title I (full name: Title I, Part A of the Elementary and Secondary Education Act – ESEA/ESSA)

What it actually is:
Federal money given to schools with high numbers or high percentages of low-income students to help close achievement gaps.

What the money can pay for:
Supplemental instructional materials, STEM equipment, hands-on projects that raise engagement and skills for disadvantaged students. Your soldering kits count 100%.

Typical amount a single high school or district can spend on kits:
$50,000 – $500,000+ per school per year (varies by enrollment and poverty level). A school can easily buy 1,000–5,000 kits with their Title I budget.

Perkins (Carl D. Perkins Career & Technical Education Act – now Perkins V)

What it actually is:
Federal money specifically for Career and Technical Education (CTE) programs – shop classes, electronics, engineering, manufacturing, etc.

Any public high school that offers approved CTE courses (wood shop, metal shop, robotics, electronics, pre-engineering, etc.). Almost every U.S. high school has at least one Perkins-eligible program.

What the money can pay for:
Tools, equipment, consumable supplies, and curriculum materials that teach technical skills for jobs. Soldering kits are a textbook example of an allowable purchase.

Typical amount a single high school or district can spend on kits:
Districts get millions statewide; individual high schools typically receive $5,000 – $100,000+ per year for equipment/supplies. Many schools buy 200–1,000+ kits at a time with Perkins money.

The Designer’s Guide:
Why I Designed the LED American Flag This Way —
and the Real Odds of Getting It to Light Perfectly on the First Try

Why I Designed the LED American Flag Kit

My LED American Flag isn’t about mass production — it’s about learning. It’s the perfect kit for anyone who wants to understand, the mechanics of soldering and an introduction to electronic components, and basic electronic theory firsthand.

Beyond teaching you the mechanics of soldering, my mission is to help you think like an Electronics Manufacturing Engineer. That means understanding why a circuit board can be great for learning at your kitchen table but a total nightmare on a factory floor.

Why This Kit Stands Out by Design

What makes this kit special isn’t its difficulty—it’s its ease of soldering, troubleshooting and repairability.

Why My Soldering Kit Is Different —

I Specifically Designed the Kit for Hand Assembly & Soldering, Not Factory Assembly

1. Mixed Technology Components:
My soldering kits use a mix of through-hole and surface-mount components. This introduces builders to both traditional through-hole soldering and modern surface-mount techniques in one project.

2. Single-Sided Circuit Layout (No Plated Through-Holes):

All circuitry is located on the bottom side of the board, and I intentionally avoid using plated through-holes for the component leads. This makes it much easier to remove and replace incorrectly installed or defective components — a major advantage for beginners.

3. Hand-Soldering–Friendly Pad Design:

I designed the chip resistor pads specifically for easy hand soldering. One pad keeps standard dimensions to help center and “tack” the resistor in place, while the opposite pad is elongated to provide a larger surface area, making it easier to solder with a traditional iron.

4.Enhanced Pad Geometry for Hand Soldering- Hand-Soldering Optimized LED Pads:

For all through-hole LED components, I went beyond the standard circular solder pads typically used for component leads. In addition to these standard pads, I incorporated large rectangular pads with substantially greater surface area. These oversized pads make it much easier for beginners to solder the LED leads securely to the board.

In locations where LEDs are connected in series, a single rectangular pad is used to accommodate the leads from two LEDs simultaneously. This approach allows both connections to be soldered at once, reducing the total number of solder joints, minimizing the potential for solder defects, and decreasing the number of joints that require inspection. Overall, this design choice simplifies assembly, improves reliability, and enhances manufacturability for hand-soldered builds.

Built In Diagnostics

Each LED acts as a diagnostic tool. In a radio kit, a silent speaker might mean any of 25 parts failed. But with the flag, the LEDs show exactly which section is wrong.

Due to the inherent nature of the design, I was able to divide the 266 components into small, logical groups of 6–8 LEDs. The LEDs literally light the way to any problem. If something fails, you only need to troubleshoot that small section — not the entire board.

In the worst-case scenario, you can use a method electronic repair technicians call “shotgunning,” where you simply remove and replace all the components in that section. This is easy to do because, unlike most circuit boards that use plated through-holes, I deliberately designed my board without them. Plated through-holes can make it extremely difficult for someone who is inexperienced with soldering to remove defective components.

Follow the assembly and troubleshooting guide I provide, and your chances of ending up with a 100% functional flag are extremely high.

The Tyranny of Numbers in Hand Soldering

Let’s be honest — your odds of assembling this soldering kit and ending up with a 100% functional LED American Flag on the first try (with zero troubleshooting, rework, or repair) are extremely low.

It doesn’t matter how much experience you have with electronics or soldering. The reason is what we Electronics Manufacturing Engineers call “the tyranny of numbers.”

Every component you place, and every solder joint you make, is another opportunity for something to go wrong. The more parts, the more chances for mistakes. It’s simple math — and it dominates every assembly process, from kitchen-table kits to billion-dollar factories.

Understanding “The Tyranny of Numbers”

A small soldering kit with just a few components in most cases gives you a much higher chance of success—fewer parts mean fewer opportunities for defects.

A large soldering kit — no matter how well designed or precise the assembly instructions — dramatically increases the odds of assembly errors. My LED Flag, with its 266 components, is no exception.

From experience, I estimate that 85–95% of builders, regardless of knowledge, skill, or experience will need to troubleshoot, rework, or repair something before their flag works perfectly.

Why Humans Struggle to Build Modern Electronics

After decades as an Electronics Manufacturing Engineer, I’ve learned one unshakable truth:

Humans are not built to assemble modern electronics.

Machines never blink, tremble, or lose focus. We do. And that’s why defects happen.

Modern surface-mount components are far too tiny and delicate for consistent human soldering, especially with a traditional iron. Some, like BGAs, even have their contacts hidden underneath the components body— making it completely unsolderable with a hand soldering iron. That’s why every major manufacturer today uses robotic pick-and-place systems and reflow ovens. Robots provide the precision and repeatability that make modern electronics cheap and reliable.

Reality: Considering a career as a professional soldering technician today?

That’s like saying, “I’ll specialize in typewriters!” in the 1980s.

The True Reality Regarding the Use a Soldering Iron for Electronic Assembly

While the traditional soldering iron still has its place — the use of a soldering iron in modern electronic assembly is extremely limited for rare cases where certain components cannot be included in standard machine assembly. This may be due to their size, sensitivity to the heat of the soldering process, or incompatibility with typical manufacturing processes such as circuit board cleaning. Soldering irons can also be used for rework and repairs, but only on a very limited basis, since hot air rework tools are usually the more effective method.

Additionally, outside of circuit assembly — where soldering irons once held some relevance — soldering for external connections, such as wiring to connectors and components, has been almost entirely replaced by solderless contacts and terminals. Soldering is now typically reserved for a few specialized applications that demand exceptionally high reliability of electrical connections.

Just as the traditional hand axe was rendered obsolete by the introduction of the handsaw and, later, by modern machining, the traditional soldering iron is likewise disappearing from electronic assembly manufacturing.

Think of it like this: imagine a modern furniture factory deciding to ditch CNC machines and power saws and instead build every chair by hand with axes and handsaws.

The result?

Rough, inconsistent furniture
Sky-high labor costs
One chair per worker per week
Zero scalability

That’s exactly where the soldering iron stands in 2025 electronics manufacturing — a proud relic of the past. Perfect for minor repairs, prototyping, teaching the mechanics of soldering, obsolete for production.

Why My LED American Flag Design-

Does Not Lend Itself Well to Automated Manufacturing

The Two Big Manufacturing “Sins”

Mixed technology: through-hole LEDs plus surface-mount resistors and a diode.
Components on both sides of the PCB.

In mass production, the golden rule is using either 100% through-hole or 100% surface-mount components, place them on one side of the board, and solder everything in a single pass through the appropriate soldering machine.

Circuit boards that incorporate mix technology components, that use both through-hole and surface mount components adds complexity and makes machine assembly far more difficult, and costly.

In addition, even if only one type of component package is used, mounting components on both sides of the circuit board, for example, a board with surface-mount components on both sides, similar to mixed-technology assemblies, adds process steps, increases manufacturing complexity, and raises production costs. This approach is typically justified only when it enables a smaller enclosure, eliminates the need for a secondary circuit board, or provides performance benefits in high-frequency applications.

My LED flag breaks both rules. Through-hole LEDs on one side, surface-mount parts on the other. That means more process steps, higher complexity, and lower yield — all of which drive up cost.

If someone handed me my own design and asked for a million units, I’d just smile and think,

“Ah, so you’ve never actually seen how this thing goes together.”
Automating it would make even the robots unionize in protest.

My LED American Flag soldering kit is specifically designed to be 100% hand-assembled and soldered using a soldering iron. The design intentionally prioritizes manual craftsmanship over manufacturability and was never intended for automated mass production.

Although the LED American Flag could be populated and soldered using automated processes, the design is far from optimized for that purpose.

If the design had used exclusively through-hole or exclusively surface-mount components, automated population and soldering would have been considerably easier to implement. However, multiple design factors influenced the final configuration.

In addition to the circuit board layout, the enclosure design for the circuit board was a key consideration. Due to cost considerations and simplicity my objective was to develop a single-piece, open-face enclosure that did not require a transparent cover over the top side of the PCB. Incorporating such a cover would have increased the cost and complexity of the enclosure while diminishing the visual appeal of the exposed LEDs.

The use of surface‑mount LEDs was incompatible with an open‑face enclosure design because their electrical contacts are exposed on the top side of the circuit board. Although surface‑mount LEDs are well‑suited for automated assembly, they would have significantly complicated manual placement and soldering compared to through‑hole LEDs, which are far better suited for hand assembly. Moreover, the exposed contacts of surface‑mount LEDs would have required a protective cover to prevent accidental contact or damage.

To avoid these issues, through‑hole LEDs were chosen for the top side of the board, simplifying hand assembly and preserving the open‑face aesthetic. Surface‑mount resistors and diodes were instead placed on the bottom side of the circuit board, as using through‑hole versions would have left their leads exposed on the top, making an open‑face design impractical.

Added Process Steps & Complexity of My Design Using Mass Manufacturing Assembly Equipment

The Process:

Solder paste application: Solder paste is screen-printed onto the bottom side of the board at the pads where surface-mount resistors and diodes will be placed.
Surface-mount adhesive (SMD adhesive) application: A small dot of SMD adhesive (also known as surface-mount adhesive or SMA, typically a one-part epoxy, red or orange in color) is dispensed directly beneath the center of each component body to temporarily secure it to the PCB during handling and wave soldering. This adhesive meets IPC-SM-817 standards and is applied via automated syringe, stencil, or pin-transfer.
Surface-mount component placement: The surface-mount resistors and diodes are precisely placed onto the solder paste and SMD adhesive dots using a pick-and-place machine.
Adhesive curing: The SMD adhesive is heat-cured (typically 100–150°C for 1–5 minutes in a dedicated oven or inline process) to fully bond the components to the board before further handling or wave soldering.
Board flipping and through-hole component insertion: The board is flipped, and through-hole LEDs are inserted on the top side using an insertion machine or manual process.
Final soldering: The fully populated board passes through a wave soldering process, which simultaneously solders the surface-mount components (held in place by cured SMD adhesive and solder joints) on the bottom side and the through-hole LEDs on the top side in a single operation.

This method has existed since the 1980s — and it’s notorious for problems:

Adhesive fails → parts float in molten solder
Poor layout → cold joints and solder bridges
Yields drop, costs rise

Common Process Difficulties in Mixed-Technology (SMT + THT) Wave Soldering

Below are real-world manufacturing challenges in the mixed-technology wave soldering process, focusing on SMD adhesive and wave soldering interactions. These can lead to defects, yield loss, or rework.

1. Adhesive-Related Issues

Adhesive stringing or tailing Dispensed dots form strings/tails due to high viscosity, wrong needle, or poor parameters. → Contaminates pads, causes misalignment or solder bridging.
Insufficient adhesive volume Too little adhesive → weak bond. → Components shift or fall off during flip or wave.
Excessive adhesive volume Too much adhesive oozes onto pads or under component. → Solder non-wetting, insufficient joints, tombstoning.
Adhesive on solder pads Misaligned dispensing contaminates pads. → Poor solderability, voids, open joints.
Incomplete adhesive curing Under-cured (low temp/time). → Components dislodge in wave, outgassing causes solder splatter.
Over-cured or brittle adhesive Excessive heat/time. → Cracks under stress; adhesive chars and contaminates flux/solder.

2. Component Placement & Handling

Component shifting before cure Pick-and-place pressure pushes part into wet adhesive. → Misalignment, rotated parts, solder defects.
Board warpage after cure Thermal mismatch (adhesive vs. PCB). → Poor wave contact, skipped joints, bridging.
Adhesive curing oven bottlenecks Dedicated curing step adds time/space. → Throughput reduction, WIP buildup.

3. Wave Soldering Interactions

Adhesive outgassing in wave Moisture/uncured monomers vaporize at 250°C+. → Solder balls, voids, flux contamination, nozzle clogging.
Adhesive residue on wave Charred adhesive floats in solder pot. → Contaminates solder bath, needs frequent dross removal.
Solder wave turbulence High wave height/pump speed. → SMT parts swept away if bond is weak.

4. Material & Compatibility Issues

Adhesive-flux incompatibility No-clean flux reacts with adhesive. → Poor wetting, residue, reliability issues.
Adhesive not wave-resistant Non-qualified adhesive softens in wave. → Component detachment, defective boards.
Color misidentification red adhesive mistaken for flux in AOI. → False defects, operator confusion.

5. Inspection & Quality Control Challenges

AOI false calls Red/orange dots flagged as contaminants. → Unnecessary rework, yield loss.
Adhesive voiding under component Air trapped in large dots. → Weak bond, popcorning risk in wave.
Post-wave adhesive residue Charred adhesive around component. → Cosmetic defects, cleaning needed (if not no clean).

Mitigation Summary (Best Practices)

Adhesive volume/stringing → Use time-pressure dispensing with vision guidance.
Incomplete cure → Validate with DSC/TGA; use inline IR/convection curing.
Wave dislodgement → Use high green-strength, wave-compatible SMD adhesive (e.g., Loctite 3609, Heraeus AD-series).
Outgassing → Pre-bake boards; use low-voiding formulations.
Inspection → Train AOI to ignore adhesive zones; use X-ray for critical bonds.

Bottom Line: The SMD adhesive step is critical but fragile in wave soldering. Biggest risks: under/over-dispensing, incomplete curing, and adhesive-wave interaction. Use IPC-SM-817 qualified, wave-resistant adhesives and tightly control dispense + cure parameters to maximize yield.

What 30 Years in the Industry Taught Me

Back in the mid-1980s, I worked as a Field Engineer for the largest soldering equipment manufacturer in the United States. I traveled the country installing high-volume assembly systems, provided operational and maintenance training, and solving process issues.

Over a hundred plant visits — from small startups to global giants — I saw one pattern again and again:

Persistent yield problems often had nothing to do with the soldering process itself. They came from poor circuit board or fixturing designs. That lesson stuck with me until today:

A great product must also be manufacturable.

You can design the most brilliant product in the world, but if it’s difficult or inconsistent to build, it’s a poor design. Manufacturability determines true quality.

What Makes This Kit Special

What really sets this kit apart isn’t its difficulty — it’s how easy it is to fix when something doesn’t work.

Each LED acts as a built-in diagnostic tool. In a radio kit, a silent speaker could mean 25 different things. But in this flag, the LEDs instantly show which section has an issue.

I designed the 266 parts in small groups of 6–8 LEDs. So, when something fails, you don’t have to hunt across the entire board — you only check a tiny section. The LEDs literally light the way to the problem. Follow the included troubleshooting guide, and your chances of finishing with a fully functional LED flag are extremely high.

This Isn’t Just a Soldering Kit. It’s How You Learn to Think Like an Engineer.

You’ll learn how to solder, yes. But more importantly, you’ll understand how engineers think about manufacturability, yield, and design trade-offs. It’s hands-on learning project, with a dose of real-world engineering insight — and a bright, patriotic payoff when your flag lights up.

Putting Real Numbers to the Cost of
Hand Assembly vs. Automation

We’ve talked about how design choices affect manufacturability — but what about cost? It’s one thing to understand that automation is faster and more consistent, but another to see just how dramatic the difference really is. Let’s look at what it would actually take to build one million LED American Flags by hand versus by machine.

So, let’s put some real-world numbers to it. Imagine scaling this LED American Flag kit — the same one you’re soldering by hand — to 1 million units per year. What would it actually take to build that many by hand… and how would it compare to a modern, fully automated production line?

The Cost Reality: Why Hand Assembly Doesn’t Scale

There are many ways to assemble circuit boards — from 100% manual hand soldering to hybrid or semi-automated processes, to fully robotic production lines.

But to clearly show how costs explode when humans replace machines, let’s compare two extremes:

All Hand Assembly — built entirely by people using soldering irons and hand tools.
Fully Automated Surface-Mount (SMT) Assembly — built entirely by robotic placement and reflow ovens.

Both methods will get you a working board, but only one is practical when you start talking about serious production volume.

Scenario A: All Hand Assembly

Imagine producing 1 million LED American Flag boards per year, each with 266 components — 37 chip resistors, one chip diode, and the rest 5 mm through-hole resistors.

Assembly time:

• Through-hole parts: about 30 seconds each × 228 parts = 1.9 hours

• Chip parts: about 1 minute each × 38 parts = 0.6 hours

• Total assembly time per board: approximately 2.5 hours

Labor cost:

At a typical manufacturing rate of $35 per hour (fully loaded, including benefits, payroll taxes, and overhead), labor alone costs about $87–$105 per board, including inspection and rework.

Scaling that up to 1 million boards per year means:

• Around 1,200 to 1,500 full-time assemblers working year-round

• Roughly $87–$105 million in annual labor cost

• Significant extra overhead for rework, quality control, and management

Even before adding workspace, tools, and yield losses, this approach is economically impossible. Hand assembly is fine for small runs or learning, but at a million units per year it’s completely unfeasible.

Scenario B: Fully Automated SMT Assembly

Now, imagine the same board redesigned for 100% surface-mount components on one side of the PCB — ideal for robotic pick-and-place and reflow soldering.

Modern SMT lines can place thousands of components per hour with exceptional accuracy. Typical placement cost ranges from $0.02 to $0.05 per component. At 266 components per board, that’s about $8 for placement.

Add reflow, inspection, and handling, and the total assembly cost is about $10 per board.

Scaling that to 1 million boards per year:

• One or two SMT lines can handle the entire volume

• Around 30 to 50 total staff including operators, maintenance, and QA

• Total annual assembly cost of roughly $10–$13 million

Hand Assembly vs. SMT Automation — Quick Comparison

• Components per board: both have 266

• Time per board: hand assembly ~2.5 hours; automated SMT ~1–2 minutes

• Labor cost per board: hand assembly $87–$105; automated SMT about $10

• Annual assembly cost (1 million units): hand assembly ~$87–$105 million; SMT ~$10–$13 million

• Workers required: hand assembly 1,200–1,500; SMT 30–50

• Yield and consistency: hand assembly low yield, high rework; SMT high yield, low rework

• Scalability: hand assembly extremely poor; SMT excellent

• Feasibility: hand assembly unrealistic beyond small runs; SMT ideal for mass production

The Takeaway

There are countless ways to build a circuit board, but at high volume, labor cost and yield dictate survival. Hand soldering is perfect for learning, prototyping, and small-run craftsmanship. Automation is the only viable path for large-scale manufacturing.

Modern electronics manufacturing runs on precision, repeatability, and throughput — the very things humans struggle with and robots excel at. That’s why the traditional soldering iron, while still an amazing educational tool, has become a symbol of the past in production environments — a bridge between how electronics were built and how they’re built today.

Engineer's Level of Difficulty Assessment

Assembly Difficulty Level

The ease of successfully building this soldering kit depends on two key factors:

Your ability to read, comprehend, and follow detailed instructions.
Your electronics theory knowledge.

For those with basic or advanced electronics knowledge

(with or without prior soldering experience)

If you're an engineer, electronics technician, or avid hobbyist:

Detailed instructions and schematics are helpful but not essential.
Hand you a box of parts and say, "Build an LED American Flag." You’ll nail it 100% of the time.
As long as spare components are included (for mistakes or failures), you’ll deliver a fully functional kit every time—no instructions required.

Important distinction:

"Fully functional" but may or may not "pass quality inspection."
A completed LED American Flag kit can light up 100%—yet still fail inspection. Even if every LED works, poor soldering (cold joints, excess flux, insufficient wetting) will violate the industry-standard IPC-A-610 quality criteria most manufacturers follow.
In short: Works perfectly → functional, but non-conforming solder joints → rejected in QC

Key note:

Just because someone is an electrical engineer, technician, or avid enthusiast doesn’t mean they have any soldering experience or skill.
Many of the world’s top engineers—who design satellites, cell phones, and computers—have only minimal soldering exposure. Many might struggle to produce an acceptable solder joint, let alone compete with a professional assembly technician.
Earning an electrical engineering degree requires zero soldering training; it tests only electrical theory.

Success rate prediction:

Even with strong electronics knowledge, if soldering experience is low or absent, I predict 8 or 9 out of 10 will not achieve 100% functionality on the first try—whether they follow instructions carefully or skip them entirely.
They will need to troubleshoot, identify issues (reversed components, poor joints, etc.), and fix them to reach full functionality.

Under mission-critical conditions:

If informed that this assembly would be deployed on the Moon as a mission-critical system that must function flawlessly on first activation—with no opportunity for pretesting—their approach would change dramatically.
They would create a comprehensive assembly plan, implement strict process controls, and meticulously verify each connection and solder joint.
Under those conditions, nearly all of them would achieve 100% operational success on the initial attempt.

For those with lots of soldering experience

(but little or no electronics knowledge)

If you’ve soldered thousands of soldering joints—but have minimal understanding of electronics theory:

You can likely produce beautiful, shiny solder joints that look perfect under magnification.
However, without electronics knowledge, you may: → Install components backward (LEDs, diodes) → Misinterpret assembly instructions → Overlook a poor solder joint during inspection.

Success rate:

Visual quality may be excellent, but functionality on first power-up, will depend on your ability to follow detailed instructions and your flawless execution.
You’ll need to rely heavily on instructions and visual cues (photos, markings).
With patience and careful adherence to the guide, a very high-rate success is achievable—but may require multiple desoldering/rework cycles.

Best outcome:

Combine your soldering skill with strict instruction-following → high chance of both functionality and acceptable joint quality.

For those with little or no electronics knowledge

(and little to no prior soldering experience)

Difficulty and Success Rate for a 100% Functional Kit After Assembly:

If you have very little or no understanding of electronics theory, and little to no soldering experience, the chances of assembling this kit and having it work perfectly on the first attempt are close to zero. However, your ability to eventually achieve a fully functional kit depends on two main factors:

Your reading comprehension and ability to follow detailed instructions.
Your persistence, personal interest, and motivation to learn something new.

Neither of these factors is a barrier—anyone can succeed with enough curiosity, effort, and patience. Within this group, initial success may be uncommon, but those who commit to the process and see it through will ultimately be able to complete and proudly display a 100% fully functional project.

LED American Flag PCB Schematic

LED American Flag
Enclosure (E1) Wiring Diagram

LED American Flag Electrical Calculations

PCB is designed to represent a traditional U.S. flag, 300 mm × 180 mm, with four main LED sections:

1. Stars (Blue Field)

50 white LEDs arranged in the official alternating pattern
Consists of 9 parallel branches:
- 5 branches of 6 LEDs in series, with one 510 Ω resistor each
- 4 branches of 5 LEDs in series, with one 510 Ω resistor each

2. Blue LED Outline (Bottom and Right of Stars)

12 blue LEDs forming the border
Consists of 2 parallel branches of 6 blue LEDs in series, each branch with one 510 Ω resistor

3. Top 7 Stripes (Right of the Stars)

Represents the upper 7 stripes
Consists of 10 parallel branches, each with 7 LEDs in series (4 red + 3 white, sequence R-W-R-W-R-W-R) and one 510 Ω resistor

4. Bottom 6 Stripes (Full Width)

Completes the lower 6 stripes across the full board width
Consists of 16 parallel branches, each with 6 LEDs in series (3 red + 3 white, sequence W-R-W-R-W-R) and one 510 Ω resistor

Circuit Analysis

1. Stars Section – 50 White LEDs (Vf ≈ 3.2 V each)

5 rows of 6 LEDs 6 × 3.2 V = 19.2 V

Resistor drop: 23.5 − 19.2 = 4.3 V

Current per row: 4.3 V / 510 Ω ≈ 8.43 mA

Total (5 rows): 5 × 8.43 ≈ 42.2 mA

4 rows of 5 LEDs 5 × 3.2 V = 16.0 V

Resistor drop: 23.5 − 16.0 = 7.5 V

Current per row: 7.5 V / 510 Ω ≈ 14.71 mA

Total (4 rows): 4 × 14.71 ≈ 58.8 mA

50 Stars total: ≈ 101.0 mA

2. Blue Border – 12 Blue LEDs (Vf ≈ 3.1 V typical)

2 strings of 6 blue LEDs 6 × 3.1 V = 18.6 V

Resistor drop: 23.5 − 18.6 = 4.9 V

Current per string: 4.9 V / 510 Ω ≈ 9.61 mA

Total (2 strings): ≈ 19.2 mA

3. Top 7 Stripes – 10 rows × 7 LEDs (4 red @ 2.0 V, 3 white @ 3.2 V)

Per row: (4 × 2.0) + (3 × 3.2) = 8.0 V + 9.6 V = 17.6 V

Resistor drop: 23.5 − 17.6 = 5.9 V

Current per row: 5.9 V / 510 Ω ≈ 11.57 mA

Total (10 rows): 10 × 11.57 ≈ 115.7 mA

4. Bottom 6 Stripes – 16 rows × 6 LEDs (3 red @ 2.0 V, 3 white @ 3.2 V)

Per row: (3 × 2.0) + (3 × 3.2) = 6.0 V + 9.6 V = 15.6 V

Resistor drop: 23.5 − 15.6 = 7.9 V

Current per row: 7.9 V / 510 Ω ≈ 15.49 mA

Total (16 rows): 16 × 15.49 ≈ 247.8 mA

Power Supply & Protection

Voltage Source: 24 V DC regulated power supply
Reverse-polarity protection: SS34 Schottky diode (1 A, 40 V) in series with +24 V input
Effective voltage at LED circuits: 24.0 V − 0.5 V = 23.5 V
Total current draw: ≈ 394–400 mA max
Power connection: Solder Pads

LED American Flag
Circuit Board Assembly Guide

American Flag Builders Kit 5 Pack $149.50

Circuit Board with High Quality Colorful Silkscreen Image

(Unpopulated Circuit Board)

(Populated Circuit Board)

LED American Flag Soldering Kit –
Complete Parts List & Assembly Hierarchy

COMPONENTS & BUILD ORDER

1. PCB ASSEMBLY (build this first – fully functional board before wiring)

├── 1 × LED AMERICAN FLAG PCB KIT 100-07041776-B-ROSS

├── 88 × Red 5 mm through-hole LEDs

├── 128 × White 5 mm through-hole LEDs

├── 12 × Blue 5 mm through-hole LEDs

├── 27 × 510 Ω resistors – 1206 SMD

├── 1 × SS34 Schottky diode – SMA package

├── 1 × self-adhesive strain-relief / cable clamp (peel-and-stick)

└── 1 × small zip tie (for wire securing)

2. ENCLOSURE WIRING SUB-ASSEMBLY (build this second)

├── 1 × one-piece open-face enclosure (E1)

├── 1 × panel-mount 2.1mm DC barrel jack (center positive)

├── 1 × inline 5×20 mm fuse holder

├── 1 × 1 A 125 V fuse (5×20 mm)

├── ~25 cm Red 18 AWG stranded wire

└── ~25 cm Black 18 AWG stranded wire

3. FINAL MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY (last step – everything comes together)

├── Completed PCB assembly (from step 1)

├── Completed enclosure power wiring (from step 2)

├── 4 × M3 × 20 mm (or 22 mm) pan-head/button-head screws

├── 4 × M3 hex nuts (standard 2.4 mm thick)

├── PSU 24 V DC ±5 %, minimum 1.5 A (≥36 W), 100–240 V AC input, 5.5 × 2.1 mm barrel connector (center-positive ⊕), UL/CE/FCC/RoHS certified

LED American Flag
Circuit Board Assembly Parts List

LED American Flag
Enclosure Assembly Parts List

LED American Flag
Final Assembly Parts List

Engineers Notes:

Safety Notes:

Age Recommendations:
The American Flag Soldering Kit is intended for ages 16+ with qualified adult supervision. Users 18 and older may operate it independently but use at your own risk—you are solely responsible for your safety.

Mandatory Safety Requirement
All users—regardless of age—must read this websites Home Soldering Safety course before beginning assembly.

Recommended Soldering Equipment & Supplies

Soldering Iron Tip: Use a conical tip for best results.
Tip Maintenance: Clean and tin the tip with a wet sponge and wire solder (rosin or no-clean flux core). If the tip cannot be properly cleaned and tinned as described in the assembly instructions, replace it with a new tip.
Solder: Use wire solder with rosin or no-clean flux core. Choose the thinnest diameter available for precise control over solder application.

Quality Classification
Perform all quality inspections of your work in accordance with IPC‑A‑610, the industry standard published by IPC (Association Connecting Electronics Industries), a global trade association for electronics manufacturing. IPC defines three quality classifications:

Class 1 – General Electronic Products: For products where basic functionality is the primary requirement.
Class 2 – Dedicated Service Electronic Products: For products requiring extended life and reliable performance.
Class 3 – High‑Reliability Electronic Products: For products where continued performance is critical and failure is not acceptable.

Quality Target

For all LED American flag soldering kits, the target quality standard is IPC Class 2, although Class 1 is considered acceptable.

ESD Equipment

For safety reasons, ESD protective equipment is not recommended for this soldering project. However, if you choose to use ESD protective equipment anyway, please read my ESD Prevention at Home course, before beginning assembly.

Soldering Iron Preparation Process

Power On and Heat Up Turn on your soldering iron and allow it to fully heat up to the appropriate soldering temperature.
Test the Tip Apply a small amount of solder to the tip. It should melt almost instantly—this confirms the iron is hot enough for soldering.
Tin the Tip Coat the tip with solder until a noticeable layer forms. This process is called tinning and helps improve heat transfer.
Clean the Tip Wipe the tip across a damp sponge to remove excess solder. Drag the tip gently along the sponge surface until it appears clean and shiny.
Repeat as Needed Repeat the tinning and cleaning process as many times as necessary until the tip has a smooth, shiny finish—like it's been lightly painted with solder, but without any excess buildup.

Bottom-side Circuit Board Assembly Instructions

Equipment / Supplies Required

Equipment Required
Safety Glasses
Soldering Iron / Soldering Iron Stand / Wet Sponge
Rosin or No-clean Flux Core Solder
Tweezers

Components Required
27 PCS, 510 Ohm, Surface Mount Resistors 1206 Package
1 PC, Shockley Diode - SS34 Surface Mount (D0-214) Package

PCB Bottom-Side Unpopulated Bare Circuit Board-
Showing Surface Mount Component Locations

The component locations for resistors R1–R37 and Shockley diode D1 are printed on the bottom side of the circuit board.

Step # 1
Locate Surface Mount Resistor Soldering Pads

Step 1: Locate the Surface-Mount Resistor Pads
Identify the soldering pads designated for surface-mount resistors on the bottom-side of the PCB. These pads are labeled R1 through R37 and are illustrated in the reference diagram above.

Step # 2
Prepping the Solder Pad

Step 2: Prepping the Soldering Pad for Surface-Mount Resistor Installation

Tin the Soldering Iron Tip - Begin by applying a very small amount of solder to the clean, heated tip of your soldering iron. Do this by gently pressing the solder wire against the hot tip until it is lightly coated, just enough to appear slightly wet with solder.
Tin the Soldering Pad - Identify the narrower of the two soldering pads designated for the surface-mount resistor. Press the tip of your soldering iron gently onto this pad.
Apply Solder to the Pad - While maintaining gentle pressure with the iron on the pad, press the solder wire at the point where the iron tip meets the pad. After a second or two, the solder should melt and begin to coat the pad.
Form a Proper Solder Bump - Your goal is to create a smooth solder bump that fully covers the pad. It should not form a round ball, as this indicates improper bonding. The soldering iron must remain in contact long enough for the flux within the solder to clean the pad’s surface. Once the pad reaches soldering temperature, the solder will bond mechanically to the pad.
Troubleshooting If the solder does not melt and bond within 5 seconds, stop. Clean the tip of your soldering iron using a damp sponge, reapply a small amount of solder to the tip, and repeat the process. Continue until the pad is properly tinned with a smooth, shiny bump of solder.

Step # 3
Initial Placement - Tack Soldering the Resistor to the Pad

Step 3: Tack Soldering the Resistor to Its Pad

Follow the same procedure outlined in Step-2 to prepare your soldering iron tip.

Using a pair of tweezers, grasp the surface-mount resistor by the sides of its body.
Align the resistor so it is centered between the two soldering pads and lies flat against the circuit board.
While holding the resistor in place, heat the soldering pad that was previously tinned.
As the solder melts (reflows), it will bond to the metal contact on the end of the resistor.
Once the solder becomes molten and attaches to the resistor’s contact, remove the soldering iron.
Continue holding the resistor in place with the tweezers until the solder cools and solidifies — about two seconds.
After cooling, release the resistor. One end should now be tack-soldered to the pad.

This entire process should take only a few seconds: approximately two seconds to reflow the solder and two more seconds for it to cool and set.

Step # 4
Soldering the Opposite Side of the Tack Soldered Resistor

Step 4: Soldering the Opposite Side of the Resistor

Using a clean, tinned soldering iron with a slightly wet tip, heat both the unsoldered side of the resistor contact and its pad simultaneously. Feed solder directly into the point where the soldering iron tip, pad, and resistor contact meet.

The solder should flow smoothly, covering the entire pad and bonding the resistor contact to the pad. Once the solder has flowed evenly, remove the soldering iron and allow the joint to cool for at least 3 seconds so the solder can solidify.

If rework is needed, clean the soldering iron tip before trying again. Any excess or burned solder residue on the tip can prevent proper heat transfer and result in a poor-quality solder joint.

Step # 5
Reflowing the Solder Joint of the Tacked-Side of the Resistor - Completing the Resistor Soldering Process

Step 5: Reflowing and Final Inspection

Using a clean, slightly wet soldering iron tip, reflow the resistor’s solder joint by positioning the iron so that it makes contact with both the resistor’s metal terminal and its solder pad. Apply a small additional amount of solder to the joint as needed. Once the solder flows and covers the pad evenly, remove the soldering iron tip and allow the joint to cool.

Visually inspect both solder joints and rework if necessary, always starting with a clean soldering iron tip.
Important: If you rework one side of the resistor’s solder connection, allow at least 4–5 seconds before reworking the opposite side. Attempting to reflow both sides before the first joint has cooled and solidified may cause the resistor to shift out of alignment or become dislodged from the pads.

Shockley Diode D1 Installation Procedure

Step 3: Tack Soldering the Diode into Place

While continuing to hold Diode D1 in position—aligned between its two solder pads and flat against the circuit board—with one hand, use your other hand to hold the soldering iron.

Heat one side of the diode’s metal termination until the solder beneath it melts. Then, carefully remove the soldering iron while maintaining the diode’s position until the solder cools and solidifies, securing that side of the diode in place.

Step 4: Soldering the Opposite Side of the Tacked Diode

Allow enough time for the tacked side of the diode, solder enough time to fully cool and solifiy prior to releasing the body of the diode, with your tweezers. About 5-7 seconds, at which time you can release the body with your tweezers.

Then heat the contact opposite of the tack soldered side with your soldering iron while feeding a small amount of wire solder into where the contact and soldering pad meets.

PCB Bottom-Side Fully Assembled

Topside Circuit Board Assembly Procedure

PCB Topside Bare Board